Living in Kusatsu Onsen: A Foreigner’s Honest Guide to Japan’s Most Famous Hot Spring Town

Kusatsu Onsen is the kind of place that ruins you for ordinary life. The sulfurous steam rising from the yubatake at dawn, the silence of snow-covered lanes in winter, the impossibly clear mountain air — after a few months here, the thought of returning to a city apartment becomes genuinely difficult to imagine.

I moved to a village 20 minutes from Kusatsu’s town center three years ago after visiting on a ski trip. What started as a two-week holiday became a new life. Here’s what I wish I’d known.

Where Is Kusatsu Onsen and How Do You Get There?

Kusatsu sits in Gunma Prefecture, about 180 km northwest of Tokyo at an elevation of roughly 1,200 meters. The nearest train station is Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi, about 30 minutes by bus from town. From Tokyo, the journey takes about 3 hours by a combination of shinkansen and local train, or about 2.5 hours by highway bus direct from Shinjuku. It’s close enough for occasional city visits, far enough to feel like another world.

What Is Daily Life Actually Like in Kusatsu?

In a word: quiet. Kusatsu town itself has about 6,000 permanent residents. There are supermarkets, a hospital, clinics, restaurants, and all the basics. The hot spring culture permeates everything — many residents have their own private baths, and the public sotoyu (outdoor baths) are free and available year-round.

Winters are serious. Snowfall from November to April can be substantial, and temperatures regularly drop below -10°C. You will need a car. This is non-negotiable in most rural Japanese areas, and Kusatsu is no exception. But with a car, the surrounding landscape becomes your playground: ski resorts, hiking trails, volcanic lakes, and quiet onsen villages are all within reach.

Can You Find English-Speaking Community in Kusatsu?

Kusatsu has a higher-than-average international presence thanks to its status as a tourist destination. Several guesthouse owners and hospitality workers speak English, and there’s a small but active foreign resident community. The local government has been making efforts to provide multilingual services. You won’t feel isolated here the way you might in a truly remote mountain village.

Housing: Akiya Opportunities Around Kusatsu

Property in Kusatsu town tends to be more expensive than surrounding villages due to tourist demand. However, the villages and hamlets within a 20–40 minute drive — places like Nakanojo, Higashiagatsuma, and parts of Naganohara — have significant akiya inventory. Traditional farmhouses (minka) with large land plots sell for ¥2–8 million ($13,000–52,000), often with renovation subsidies available from the municipality.

Some buyers purchase an akiya in a surrounding village as a base while spending time enjoying Kusatsu’s onsen. Others integrate fully into village life, growing vegetables, raising chickens, and becoming part of rural Japan in the deepest sense.

Working Remotely from Kusatsu: Is It Feasible?

Fiber internet has reached most of Gunma Prefecture, including areas around Kusatsu. Remote work is genuinely feasible here. The combination of reliable internet, low cost of living, and extraordinary quality of life makes this region increasingly attractive to digital nomads and remote workers, particularly those from the US, Australia, and Northern Europe who are accustomed to outdoor-oriented lifestyles.

Seasons in Kusatsu: What to Expect Year-Round

Spring (April–May): The snow melts to reveal wildflowers and waterfalls. Cherry blossoms bloom late here due to altitude — often in late April when Tokyo’s are long gone.

Summer (June–August): Cool temperatures make Kusatsu a popular escape from Tokyo heat. Hiking season peaks. Outdoor festivals fill the town center.

Autumn (September–November): Arguably the most beautiful season. Autumn foliage in this region is exceptional, drawing visitors from across Japan.

Winter (December–March): Ski season. The combination of powder snow and hot springs is essentially perfect. This is when long-term residents feel the town is truly theirs.

Should You Move to Kusatsu?

If you’re drawn to mountains, natural beauty, traditional Japanese culture, and a slower pace of life — and if you can work remotely or don’t need city employment — Kusatsu and its surroundings are genuinely extraordinary places to build a life. The cost of entry, especially for akiya properties, is a fraction of what comparable quality of life would cost in almost any other developed country.